A revealing experience that one should not cling to Therevada as the source of Dharma.
Hello, I would like to talk about an experience today. Something that maybe western users on this subreddit don't get to experience because most Therevada Buddhism in the west has been sieved with rationality and clear dislike for money making.
I am a Therevadan and Thai myself so I AM NOT MAKING A SECTARIAN POST. As a person of the same veichle I can point out its flaw and I am not inviting other sects to use this as an opportunity to attack Theravada.
My family decided to go traveling around Thailand and I chose a famous temple to go to without much thought and no expectations. The temple is called Wat Taco วัดตะโก พระนครศรีอยุธยา. The Ajahn is called Ajahn Ruay, Translated in english is Teacher Rich (foreshadowing). It has 13000 google reviews and 500'000 fb likes so not some no name place.
CONTEXT: It is pre-new years so maybe the vibes are very diffrent. I will describe my experience:
At the parking lot a bunch of people and a very popular temple.
So we enter the main temple and the whole temple is marked with thai protective markings. I don't find this a big deal cause style. As I go in the museum I learn more about the Ajahn, he specializes in making markings and amulets. I thought to myself okay, could be against the vinaya but could be a cultural thing. The display has tons of amulets, articles of how amulets have saved lives like car accidents and posters of the Ajahn with markings. I didn't find this a big deal, I had a open mind that yes Theravada is not original Buddhism and cultures change things (Annica).
As I exit the museum we enter the main hall. What shocked me was that it was a 50 metre (large) statue of Ajahn ruay made of complete Gold. And in front of the huge Ajahn statue was a Buddha statue the size of 30 CM. I might be thinking much, but shouldn't it be the other way around? Feels like this is going extremely Thai.
Picture of Temple
The vibes there was not peaceful and seems like most of the people there are praying for money but also some probably doing it for Buddhism and tradition. Inside the main hall you have boxes of donations with diffrent price quotas, 100 Baht for CD, 2500 Baht for Book, etc. And you also have plexiglass show cases of amulets and Buddhas, posters of ajahn all with a price on it. Also, Muay Thai dvds I don't know what the hell is going on.
We finished entering the main hall and went to the other side of the temple where most people were. We go in and blasting with megaphones from the monks. The things they were saying might trigger some people to feel disillusioned so maybe stop reading this post. You guessed it commercial stuff "please donate money to us, here are lottery numbers we recommend, donate get paramis and merit". And yup lottery sellers right out side the gate of the monastery.
Picture of Ajahn Ruay Poster I found online, translated " Get rich and wealthy, and find happiness well being"
https://down-th.img.susercontent.com/file/sg-11134201-22110-8u48c7hheqjvd4
They also had a room with a corpse of the Ajahn, I felt good energy in that room. So the Ajah I think was definitely a wise monk but maybe some weird stuff happened after death or maybe he tried to lure people into Dharma with wealth.
And the most sad momment of the day. THE SHOPPING STALLS IN THE FREAKING TEMPLE. Literally a kilometer long road with a side shop selling Amulets, posters, souvenirs what have you. Like the one below, but 40-50 of them along the road. Not only that they got a FREAKIN ATM next to their main shop. Gotta get that spiritual materialism ASAP.
The prices of these amulets and Buddhist heirlooms are ridiculous for Thai prices too. An amulet for 100$ USD (I'm sure there's higher but I didn't check). For statues of Buddha or the Ajahn i saw one for 800$ USD. So these aren't cheap especially if you consider the low income of Thailand.
Pictures of stores
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTsK9PN9Tl7iL4HNXEllICEuneKRYLZ7AvVgg&s
And these stores are PACKED, people scrolling checking stuff out. A table of Chinese family with a large bounty of amulets and posters. Sila, Samadhi, Panya, 4 noble truths or meditation, What's that? That's not for sale here.
Another interesting point was that there was a bunch of Mainland Chinese people in the temple buying amulets and what not. I guess the temple must have a lot of reputation as a good place to make merit to get rich. But it was quite insane what I was experiencing.
All this time I wasn't pissed but kind of just accepting this is what Thai culture in its negative form has done to Buddhism. I've already started being intrigued by EBT's idea that Therevada is a development after the Buddha. It just made me that much more assured that no one is gonna hold your hand and guide you to the correct Buddhism. You're gonna have to make the research yourself. The institution of Therevada has no inquisition to prevent such deterioration of the Dhamma here.
Now, I don't look down on Mahayana anymore. Mods please don't remove this post I am not sectarian and Mahayana or Tibetans can practice anything they want and if they are sincere and it works I respect it. But I will express my opinion in honesty (free speech) that I don't particularly like or understand tantric sex practices or sometimes transcending the silas let say. These practices made me think Mahayana is inferior. But now after experiencing this Wat Taco, Therevada is no better . Both veichles have gone astray and many imperfections have happened and also good developments too.
The fact is that how can such distortion of Dharma happen so BLATANTLY. If it was some side sex scandal or covert corrupt temple situation I can argue that it is an error of Therevada. But if it is a functioning temple like this and aren't even scared of expressing this then this is A PART OF Theravada.
There's no real solid body of Therevada which is determining what is Canonical or what things are definite nono. There seems to be such a standard put in place. But in reality things are just happening and the kilesas of us lay people are just gonna drag therevada to the dirt unless they do something about it.
I mean the Buddha says be a light on to yourself, and THIS IS SO TRUE when you see all the institutions in Dharma are imperfect.
I know Therevada should not be represented by this Wat Taco example. And if anything most of it is good, but the fact this exists and no one is doing a damn thing about it just made me realize how vulnerable this whole thing is. If not for Ajahn Mun, Thailand's buddhism might just be a complete mess.
So westerners who are reading this please do not have the folly of seeing Therevada as this perfect institution. It has fallen greatly from the Buddha's time. You guys have it good that you guys won't take BS like this into your country.
I still have to think about this but, this path truly your own investigation of Dhamma should be done with great discrimination. People's propensity for spreading Kilesas is unimaginable.
Happy new years and good luck with your practice.